The NIMAS team on Tsangyang Gyatso Peak. (India Sentinels photo via special arrangement.)
Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh: In a first, a team from the National Institute of Mountaineering and Adventure Sports (NIMAS) has successfully scaled a previously unnamed and unclimbed peak in the Gorichen range of the Himalayas in Arunachal Pradesh. The 6,383-metre (20,942-feet) summit, located in the Tawang-West Kameng region, has been christened “Tsangyang Gyatso Peak” in honour of the 6th Tibetan spiritual head, also known as the dalai lama.
The ascent, which took place in one of the most technically challenging and unexplored areas of the region, saw the team overcome formidable obstacles including sheer ice walls, treacherous crevasses, and a 2-kilometre-long glacier.
The Expedition
The NIMAS expedition team comprised 15 members. It was led by Colonel Ranveer Singh Jamwal, director of NIMAS.
This peak was unsealed so far because of its sheer difficulty of three kilometres of glacier, which is full of crevasses and treacherous terrain. Apart from these factors, there is also a steep ice wall of 900 metres, which, until now, was difficult to negotiate.
Commenting on the significance of the team’s achievement, said, “This peak, with its unforgiving terrain and extreme conditions, symbolises the resilience, wisdom, and spirit of exploration that His Holiness Tsangyang Gyatso embodied. We hope it will become a tall symbol of purity, unity, adventure, and inspiration for future generations.”
The expedition to conquer the “Tsangyang Gyatso Peak” was described as one of the most challenging ever undertaken by the NIMAS team. Despite dangerous crevasses, steep ice walls, and unpredictable weather conditions, the team’s determination and teamwork led them to successfully reach the summit, marking a historic moment in mountaineering.
It may be noted that there are still some peaks that are yet to be scaled in Arunachal Pradesh, like Nyegi Kangsang, Chomo (Chiumo), Mount Kangto, etc.
The chief minister of Arunachal Pradesh, Pema Khandu, extended his congratulations to the NIMAS for their unprecedented success and expressed support for naming the peak after the 6th dalai lama. He said, “His Holiness Tsangyang Gyatso has long been a source of wisdom and cultural pride for the people of this region. His teachings and philosophies continue to guide us, and this peak will stand as a testament to his enduring legacy.”
The 6th Dalai Lama
Rigzen Tsangyang Gyatso, born on March 1, 1683, to a local Monpa family from Ugyenling village in southern Tibet, known as “Monyul”, at the Urgelling Monastery, which is in modern-day Tawang district, Arunachal Pradesh, India.
He was enthroned as the 6th dalai lama in Tibet’s Potala Palace but received his full powers as the spiritual and political head of Tibet in 1697. Revered as a great tantric and poet, his songs and oral narratives continue to influence traditional poetry throughout Tibet and Buddhist communities in the Himalayan region.
NIMAS has informed the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) about the ascent and the decision to name the peak. The necessary formalities are currently being completed to ensure that the “Tsangyang Gyatso Peak” is officially recognized on maps.
This historic climb not only celebrates Arunachal Pradesh’s rich cultural heritage but also positions the region as a key destination for mountaineering and adventure sports, potentially attracting explorers and adventure enthusiasts from around the world.
The NIMAS, headquartered in Arunachal Pradesh’s Dirang, operates under the aegis of the defence ministry. It is a renowned adventure institute offering courses in various outdoor activities, including mountaineering, sport climbing, mountain terrain biking, scuba diving, white water rafting, paramotoring, and paragliding. The institute continues to push the boundaries of outdoor sports in India, fostering a spirit of exploration and adventure.
